Finland in Winter: A Bit About Food
You knew I was going to talk about it at some point. I always spend more time than I should considering my food choices when I travel. Perhaps somewhat surprisingly, on my trip to Finland, I kept it relatively low key. Well, except for that Michelin star restaurant I went to in Helsinki. That was definitely not low key.
As I mentioned in my last post, I got to enjoy two Lapland favorites during my tours - warm berry juice and grilled sausages. I also took advantage of the nightly special at my hotel in Luosto to try several Lapland specialities while also not having to go outside into the cold. It was the perfect, delicious option. Due to the giant breakfast, I was never hungry enough for lunch, but was glad for the three course dinner I enjoyed two evenings. Although it was an easy option for hotel guests, dinner was open to anyone.
Dinner #1
Dinner #2
These were some delicious meals, but they paled in comparison to my big splurge of the trip - dinner at my first ever Michelin starred restaurant - Olo. From beginning to end, my meal here was an experience. If you’re not into reading the minute details of someone else’s meal, you might as well skip the rest of this post. Fair warning.
As I was seated at my table next to a window with a view of the waterfront, I was informed that this sourdough loaf had been rising on the table for most of the day. It was whisked away to return to the table later in the meal warm from the oven.
The menu was a 5 course, set tasting menu that changes seasonally. There was an option to add a cheese course, although I cannot fathom how anyone could be that hungry. The restaurant happily accommodated pregnancy related dietary restrictions, for instance making substitutions for any dishes that included uncooked fish. Some of the substitutions seemed to be the dishes that were a part of their vegetarian tasting menu and all were excellent. I was slightly disappointed that pregnancy would also preclude me from the recommended wine pairings, so I was excited to learn they also had a non-alcoholic drink pairing option, which began with an excellent sparkling black currant beverage.
As I savored this first drink, I anticipated the meal to come. As I chatted with my friendly server over the course of the evening (after all, my meal lasted for hours) I learned that he previously managed a restaurant in Arizona before moving to Finland with his wife. He had been responsible for selecting wines for the restaurant and some of his favorites were Umpqua Valley wines. This was another reminder of how small the world can be - I travel all the way to Finland and meet someone familiar with my tiny piece of Oregon. Or at least the wine from my tiny piece of Oregon.
But back to the food. My meal began with a simple and flavorful quail egg and mushroom stock. This was the ideal way to begin the meal - warm, savory, not too filing, and just enough to whet my appetite.
The next tasting was apple and smoked rhubarb served with horseradish. This was served instead of pike perch, but I did not miss the fish at all.
About this time, I was brought my second beverage of the evening - apple, cucumber, and dill juice. Each of the beverages were made in house, all with fresh ingredients, some of which were from the mixologist’s own garden.
The tastings that followed were served together, the presentation becoming ever more impressive.
This next tasting was possibly my favorite of the evening - an Asian inspired potato dumpling with king crab served in a crab broth. I definitely could have eaten more than one.
The next tastings were as much about texture as taste.
At this point, the sourdough bread, fresh from the oven, was returned to my table, along with homemade butter and reindeer tongue pate. The latter I cannot speak to because I did not try it, but the butter was wonderful. This course was usually served with a beer made with the same grains used to make the bread. I was served a quite delicious non-alcoholic beer that was perfect with the hearty bread. I will never admit just how much of the bread I consumed.
It might have been the bread, but at this point, I was beginning to feel a bit full. Do not worry, though, I powered through the next courses.
After all that, it was time for dessert, served with a final berry juice and a decaf espresso. Personally, I think every meal should end with five desserts.
This meal was incredible. Of course the food was delightful, both in taste and presentation. The service was impeccable and the almost three hours I was there whisked by in a series of perfectly paced courses. From start to finish, my dinner at Olo was everything I imagined and more. And, as if I were not already completely satisfied (and by satisfied I mean beyond full - thank goodness being pregnant made it acceptable for me to have a poochy belly…), the hostess presented me with a small treat as I waited for my taxi.
Although solo dining may not be something you would consider, I encourage you to try it, especially for a special meal such as this. I could completely focus on the incredible food, mindful of the art I was consuming. It was an experience, not only a meal.
Unsurprisingly, food was one of the highlights of my solo trip to Finland. Up next, a bit about Helsinki.