The Harts Honeymoon in South Africa: Katekani Tented Lodge
Our first evening of safari adventures had been amazing, but the best was yet to come. We awoke early the following morning while the world was still dark, anticipation building despite the early hour. We dressed quickly in the coolness of the winter morning and made our way toward the lapa, drawn by the scent of coffee. After downing coffee and rusks (sort of like biscotti, but denser and less sweet), we set out for a sunrise walk through the bush.
I’ll be honest, knowing we would be on foot among wild animals was unnerving. The near panic I developed about cougars and black bears when I first moved to Oregon now seemed minor compared to the potential to walk among lions, leopards, and elephants. Despite the gun carried by our guides (which I think was probably just for show), I was nervous. The nerves remained, but it was impossible not to settle into the beauty and the rhythm of the walk as the sun rose, lighting up the world around us.
Our guides provided education on the plants in the bush, sharing ways to stay safe and pieces of the knowledge of generations passed down to one of our guides from his grandparents and their ancestors before them. We even learned of the supposed medicinal properties of elephant dung. Brandon remains certain the guides convince tourists to smoke it simply for their own amusement, but I think the explanation that, before modern medicine, smoking a concentrated version of many medicinal plants could treat a variety of ailments makes perfect sense.
The bush walk included two highlights. The first was seeing the hippos. Returned to the river after a night of hunting for food, they were peaceful in the early morning light. Honestly, it was hard to walk away, even knowing crocodiles were likely lurking nearby.
The second highlight was a close encounter with an elephant. Our guide had spotted him from a distance. No one else could see him as we made our way closer by foot. Suddenly, our guide insistently motioned for us to stop and wait quietly. I was still unable to see the elephant as our guide whispered that we should walk back to the nearby vehicle as silently as possible. Apparently the elephant was not in a good mood and had something to prove due to having lost a tusk in a fight at some point. We returned to our vehicle and had only driven a few feet when, seemingly out of nowhere, the large bull elephant moved into the road. Both ears out, a sign of altertness and the potential for danger, the elephant stared us down for several tense minutes. We could not drive away because that could cause the elephant to charge. It was both incredible and somewhat frightening. The elephant eventually calmed, but continued to watch warily as we drove away.
All that before breakfast. We returned to the lodge for a hearty British breakfast (baked beans and all), a meal we shared with nearby warthogs.
Afterwards, we packed up and prepared for the transfer to Katekani Tented Lodge, approximately 45 minutes away.
Our arrival at Katekani was like a dream. We arrived on an unseasonably warm day and were greeted with a cool drink and friendly smiles.
Two other couples arrived with us and we would get the opportunity to get to know each other better in the days to come. We were escorted to our room and had most of the afternoon to spend at our leisure. This was one of the most relaxing afternoons of our trip, spent exploring the small lodge and enjoying our gorgeous “tent.”
Katekani is a collection of 8 canvas tented rooms built around a central lapa where we gathered for meals. Each tent was spacious and open, with a private plunge pool built into a roomy deck, a luxurious bed, and a bathroom with a not just a bathtub, but also an indoor and outdoor shower. Due to a fluke of the weather, it was warm enough to enjoy the pool on that first afternoon. Other, cooler afternoons it was blissfully quiet as we sat on the deck, watching baboons and impalas just outside the fence enclosing the property. Sneaky monkeys made their way onto the deck when they thought no one was looking. At night, we fell asleep to the sound of lions roaring not so far away.
I loved the attention to detail and the special touches, like a hot water bottle to warm up our bed for the cool nights. The wonderful people who worked at Katekani went out of their way to make our stay absolutely perfect.
As lovely as our room was, as much as I could have stayed hidden away there with my husband, the very best part of our time at Katekani was the time we shared with others.
From strangers to friends
Each evening, we sat around a carefully decorated communal table. With a fire burning nearby, we told stories of our lives over gourmet meals and bottles of wine. We shared the table with our guides and fellow travelers and learned about each others’ lives and the lives of those working and living at Katekani. Brandon and I would return to our room each evening along the lighted paths with a feeling of lightness, lightness that comes with connectedness and friendship.
One afternoon we spent enjoying South African wine and cheese on the deck of another couple’s room, talking politics and universal healthcare. I think Katekani provided a place to connect - away from distractions and amid the wild beauty of South Africa. As different as we all were, we each came to this place and found the crucial things of common humanity.
Katekani was perfection. It was a place of genuine welcome. It was so much more than a luxury lodge - yes, it was beautiful, with impeccable service, but more than that it was authentic and substantially real.